Folias De Baco Uivo Renegado Vinhas Velhas 2019
Style/ Colour Rose or light red/ Palhete
Grape varieties This field blend contains over 25 native Portuguese varieties with nearly equal amounts of red and white grape.
The producer Tiago Sampaio, a renegado in human form, established his label in 2007, having completed his PhD in Oregon. Falling for Pinot Noir stateside, he planted it in the Douro in 2001, where his enjoyment of the Burgundian grape’s delicacy and freshness has heavily influenced his style. Happily, his family owned vineyards around Favaois, whose elevated climes are famous for producing white wines - aromatic Moscatels, traditionally fortified for DOC Moscatel do Douro production. Tiago cultivates vineyards between 500-700m – a mix of inherited old field blend vineyards and new plantings, where the boundary pusher has planted Alvarinho and Tinta Francisca. He also consults at Aphros, the leading biodynamic Vinho Verde producer.
The vineyard/winemaking Grapes were hand harvested from an organically cultivated field blend vineyard at 500m in Favaois, in the Cima Corgo sub-region. Planted over 80 years ago to over 25 traditional varieties, it has roughly equal amounts of white and red grapes, principally Gouveio, Rabigato, Donzelinho, Malvasia Fina, Viosinho (white) and Rufete, Tinta Barroca, Touriga Franca, Mourisco and Tinta Roriz (red). The grapes were naturally whole bunch fermented in traditional granite lagares. The resulting wine was aged on lees for six months in a combination of old chestnut barriques (15%) and cement tank.
Tasting note Is it a red, is it a rosé or a palhete, as blends of red and white grapes are traditionally known in Portugal? Whatever, this eye-opening, dusky pink wine certainly flies! Ironically, I was introduced to it at a judges’ dinner at the Australian Alternative Wine Variety Show in 2016. It was my wine of the night and I wasted no time visiting with Tiago Sampaio to find out more. Being a 50:50 blend of white and red grapes (and thanks to vine age, whole bunch ferment and skin contact), it is characterful, provocative even, compared with a conventional rosé. Bone dry, fleet of foot, very fresh, Renegado has a delicate bouquet of herbs and flowers to its mineral-sluiced al dente redcurrant and wild berry fruit.
Food pairing Heritage tomatoes with requeijão, chicken dumplings, pata negra ham.
Serving recommendations Serve lightly chilled 14-16°C
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