Horácio Simões Tradicão White 2019
Founded in 1910 by José Carvalho Simões, Casa Agrícola Horácio Simões is best known for the Simões family’s stunning range of fortified Moscatel de Setúbal. However, Horácio Simões is no one trick pony. The esoteric portfolio of sweeties includes a delicate Late Harvest Moscatel Roxo and boisterous fortified Bastardo Licoroso. As for dry wines, two rare centenarian parcels produce beautiful expressions of the region’s traditional grapes, notably, rare white grape Boal do Barreiro and Castelao.
A rare example – the only one I have encountered – of Boal do Barreiro. Once thought to be Semillon, it has a not dissimilar flavour profile to old vine Semillon from South Africa. This wine has a lemony attack (lemon peel and fresh squeezed juice), with green mango, bath salt, herbal and saline notes going through and a delicate touch of fresh ginger to the crystalline finish. 13%